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Taxi for Johnson's good advice thread


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This weekend I am taking questions about car tyres - a subject close to my heart.

Free advice:-

1) DO NOT buy cheap tyres - 

- the contact patch between each tyre and the road surface is not much bigger than your hand (for a small car). This area has to grip the road under immense forces. You need all the grip you can get to corner an stop safely.

2) DO NOT buy re-treads or part worn tyres -

- is it worth risking safety to save a few quid this way?

3) Make sure you buy tyres of the correct size and speed rating for your vehicle -

- you will find this information on the handbook for your vehicle. Don't fit tyres with a lower speed rating just because they are cheaper. You might be breaking the law, and you could be putting the tyre under more strain than it is designed for.

4) Check the tread for wear when you wash your car, or monthly. Also check the sidewalls for damage -

- kerbing your tyres causes damage to the sidewalls. if there are any bulges in the sidewalls, replace the tyre immediately.

- do you know what the tread wear indicators look like on your tyres? Eh?

- replace a tyre before the tread gets level with the wear indicator strips - is it worth running into the back of another car for the sake of that last mm?

5) Buy the best tyres you can afford, as recommended by the motoring press -

- try Continental :wub:

- Michelin

- Goodyear

- Dunlop.

6) Remember there is a play-off between rolling resistance (good fuel economy) and outright grip (typically softer tyres) -

- the best tyres do both well.

7) Rotate tyres between axles -

- if you have a front wheel drive car, the fronts will wear out quicker than the rears -

- when you replace the two fronts through wear, have the garage put the old rears on the front (assuming same size),

- have the new tyres put on the rear axle, as this gives the car better stability (most skids are caused by the rear of the car losing grip).

Hope this helps.

 

tfj

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In all my years on this august forum I have never, never read such monumentally commendable sagacity. So much so, I fear it may contravene some mission statement. Or at least give OTIB a good reputation.

 

I salute you, sir, and await your next dispensation. :clap:

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Also another way of checking the tread level is as follows: 

An easy way to check that your tyre is legal is to do the 20p test. Simply place a 20p coin into the main tread grooves of the tyre. If the outer band of the 20p coin is obscured when inserted, then your tyre tread depth is above the legal minimum limit.

In other words, i f you can see the outside band, get a new tyre.

Good thread :cool:

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On Saturday, March 11, 2017 at 14:47, Taxi for Johnson said:

This weekend I am taking questions about car tyres - a subject close to my heart.

Free advice:-

1) DO NOT buy cheap tyres - 

- the contact patch between each tyre and the road surface is not much bigger than your hand (for a small car). This area has to grip the road under immense forces. You need all the grip you can get to corner an stop safely.

2) DO NOT buy re-treads or part worn tyres -

- is it worth risking safety to save a few quid this way?

3) Make sure you buy tyres of the correct size and speed rating for your vehicle -

- you will find this information on the handbook for your vehicle. Don't fit tyres with a lower speed rating just because they are cheaper. You might be breaking the law, and you could be putting the tyre under more strain than it is designed for.

4) Check the tread for wear when you wash your car, or monthly. Also check the sidewalls for damage -

- kerbing your tyres causes damage to the sidewalls. if there are any bulges in the sidewalls, replace the tyre immediately.

- do you know what the tread wear indicators look like on your tyres? Eh?

- replace a tyre before the tread gets level with the wear indicator strips - is it worth running into the back of another car for the sake of that last mm?

5) Buy the best tyres you can afford, as recommended by the motoring press -

- try Continental :wub:

- Michelin

- Goodyear

- Dunlop.

6) Remember there is a play-off between rolling resistance (good fuel economy) and outright grip (typically softer tyres) -

- the best tyres do both well.

7) Rotate tyres between axles -

- if you have a front wheel drive car, the fronts will wear out quicker than the rears -

- when you replace the two fronts through wear, have the garage put the old rears on the front (assuming same size),

- have the new tyres put on the rear axle, as this gives the car better stability (most skids are caused by the rear of the car losing grip).

Hope this helps.

 

tfj

i agree

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3 hours ago, Taxi for Johnson said:

Does everyone FULLY understand tyre labelling?

E.g. 225/45 R17 93Y.

What do these mean? If you don't know you have not lived.

:noexp:

 

 

tfj  :protest:

This is getting tiresome

I'll get my coat

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On 3/11/2017 at 14:47, Taxi for Johnson said:

This weekend I am taking questions about car tyres - a subject close to my heart.

Free advice:-

1) DO NOT buy cheap tyres - 

- the contact patch between each tyre and the road surface is not much bigger than your hand (for a small car). This area has to grip the road under immense forces. You need all the grip you can get to corner an stop safely.

2) DO NOT buy re-treads or part worn tyres -

- is it worth risking safety to save a few quid this way?

3) Make sure you buy tyres of the correct size and speed rating for your vehicle -

- you will find this information on the handbook for your vehicle. Don't fit tyres with a lower speed rating just because they are cheaper. You might be breaking the law, and you could be putting the tyre under more strain than it is designed for.

4) Check the tread for wear when you wash your car, or monthly. Also check the sidewalls for damage -

- kerbing your tyres causes damage to the sidewalls. if there are any bulges in the sidewalls, replace the tyre immediately.

- do you know what the tread wear indicators look like on your tyres? Eh?

- replace a tyre before the tread gets level with the wear indicator strips - is it worth running into the back of another car for the sake of that last mm?

5) Buy the best tyres you can afford, as recommended by the motoring press -

- try Continental :wub:

- Michelin

- Goodyear

- Dunlop.

6) Remember there is a play-off between rolling resistance (good fuel economy) and outright grip (typically softer tyres) -

- the best tyres do both well.

7) Rotate tyres between axles -

- if you have a front wheel drive car, the fronts will wear out quicker than the rears -

- when you replace the two fronts through wear, have the garage put the old rears on the front (assuming same size),

- have the new tyres put on the rear axle, as this gives the car better stability (most skids are caused by the rear of the car losing grip).

Hope this helps.

 

tfj

I have just put a set of Michelin cross climate tyres on my car, they give such a smooth ride and are very grippy, I just hope that they live up to their claim of lasting.

 

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OK - calm down ..........

225/45 R17 93Y, for example.

225: width of tyre

45: aspect of tyre as a percentage

R17: 17" rim (the wheel size)

93: Load rating

Y: speed rating.

 

Seriously - there is no charge for any of this information.

;)

 

tfj  :protest:

P.S. We are getting relegated - just accept it.

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A few more pointers about tyres, as I might move onto another subject after the loss to Huddersfield.

 

A good time to check your tyres is whenever you wash your car. If you don't wash it :facepalm:, then at least have a look at the tyres when you check the pressures - a minimum of once per month.

(You will find the correct tyre pressures on the inside frame of the drivers door - or failing that in the handbook. Ensure you check the pressures for the correct tyre size, as most cars are sold with a choice of wheel size).

Check the following:-

- the sidewalls for signs of damage: most damage to sidewalls is serious; in particular bulges indicate serious damage to the structure of the tyre, and will require replacing.

- check for tread wear. Learn how to inspect the tread wear indicator, which runs across the whole width of the tread. Once the tyre tread reaches this level (flush with indicator), the tyre is spent. Replace the tyre before it gets this low, especially in wet conditions, like autumn / winter. A low level of tread significantly increases the chance of aquaplaning, and increases stopping distance.

- make sure you can see across the WHOLE tread, not just the outside bit e.g. poorly aligned tyres may wear on the inside edge, where it is difficult to see. If you can't see the whole tyre, for example, you are an idiot, then get a tyre depot to check for you. This will be free.

- it's a good idea to remove some of the small stones that get stuck in the tread before they work themselves into the fabric of the tyre

- check for screws / nails in the tyre, and don't remove any you find. If the tyre is not deflating, get the car to a tyre depot, and as long as the damage is within the main tread, it can often be repaired quite cheaply (under £20). This does not apply with damage on the edge or side walls.

Finally, a reminder about checking tyre pressures. Over and under inflation is bad news. The usual sin is under inflation: this causes an increase in fuel consumption, increased tyre wear, a loss of grip, and potentially reduced stability and associated increased chance of skidding.

Check pressures regularly, and get yourself a reliable pressure gauge so you can check at home.

A car operated inflator is a good idea too, and saves having to faff about with 20p coins in garages. As tyre pressures should always be checked when the tyres are cool, checking pressures on the drive is better than when tyres are warm / hot, as they usually will be after driving several miles to the garage.

Enjoy your tyres!

:thumbsup:

 

tfj

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Tyre Pressure Gauges:-

1) Race X tyre gauge RX0014   £10.49

2) Laser tyre pressure / depth gauge 6317    £12.55

3) Oxford tyre gauge pro 0-60 OF313    £20.89

 

Tyre Inflators:-

1) Ring 12v preset digital air compressor RAC635   £25

2) Michelin 12266 High Power rapid inflator    £44.90!

3) Wolf glovebox genie 3-in-1 tyre inflator   £21.98

 

 

Tyres:-

Continental ContiSport Contact 6

Michelin Pilot Sport 4

Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 3

Dunlop SP Sport Maxx RT2

Pirelli P Zero

Yokohama Advan Sport V105.

....... expect to pay over £100 for a good tyre, depending on size. Your life depends on these things ...........

 

tfj

 

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1 hour ago, BigTone said:

YAY :banana:

 

1 hour ago, Taxi for Johnson said:

Tyre Pressure Gauges:-

1) Race X tyre gauge RX0014   £10.49

2) Laser tyre pressure / depth gauge 6317    £12.55

3) Oxford tyre gauge pro 0-60 OF313    £20.89

 

Tyre Inflators:-

1) Ring 12v preset digital air compressor RAC635   £25

2) Michelin 12266 High Power rapid inflator    £44.90!

3) Wolf glovebox genie 3-in-1 tyre inflator   £21.98

 

 

Tyres:-

Continental ContiSport Contact 6

Michelin Pilot Sport 4

Goodyear Eagle F1 Assymetric 3

Dunlop SP Sport Maxx RT2

Pirelli P Zero

Yokohama Advan Sport V105.

....... expect to pay over £100 for a good tyre, depending on size. Your life depends on these things ...........

 

tfj

 

Worth waiting for!

If you have run-flat tyres, try Continental Sport Sport Contact 5 SSR's.

:dancing2:

 

tfj

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Staying with the tyres for the moment, the laws and practices for repairing punctures are becoming ever more strict. Many minor holes are now considered unrepairable and will necessitate a new tyre. 'Runflats' or those filled by emergency foam jobs are by definition not repairable.

And another thing that crossed my mind was a warning on my pressure washer: aiming the jet at the high setting can cause damage to tyres! Watch out all of you who use those attractively-priced 'hand wash' sites.

 

All in all some utterly solid and sensible advice from his nibs. I'll be the first to say it...

LJ and SL out!

TFJ in!

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1 hour ago, Erithacus said:

Staying with the tyres for the moment, the laws and practices for repairing punctures are becoming ever more strict. Many minor holes are now considered unrepairable and will necessitate a new tyre. 'Runflats' or those filled by emergency foam jobs are by definition not repairable.

And another thing that crossed my mind was a warning on my pressure washer: aiming the jet at the high setting can cause damage to tyres! Watch out all of you who use those attractively-priced 'hand wash' sites.

 

All in all some utterly solid and sensible advice from his nibs. I'll be the first to say it...

LJ and SL out!

TFJ in!

:clap:

"Hooray!!!"

;)

 

 

tfj

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