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Bordeaux


BRISTOL86

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Central Bordeaux is really nice with plenty of pedestrianised areas with market, shops, cafes, restaurants etc. Best way to get around is by tram.  If you are flying into Bordeaux and need to get a bus to the city centre you have 2 options. There is the shuttle bus (navette) that goes every hour and will cost cica 7 euro one way per person and drops of at Bordeaux St Jean railway station. Or you can catch the No 1 that takes longer but is only 1.50 euro. This finishes at the station but drops off everywhere along the way. Taxis are VERY expensive so avoid if possible.

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3 hours ago, BRISTOL86 said:

Thanks Tone that's awesome! The place we are looking to stay is on the Rue Saint-James near Grosse Cloche - is that a good area to stay? Seems to be plenty of bars and restaurants etc. nearby. 

Grosse Cloche is one of the oldest belfry's in France and means "Big Bell". Also was used as a prison yonks ago. The area is Ok but as with a good bit of Bordeaux don't stray down too many dark side streets late at night as their are some nasty characters around. I think I read that Bordeaux has the largest pedestrianized area in Europe these days so as I say plenty of eateries, bars etc to chose from. If you are looking for lunch then a nice "Plat de Jour" should give you 3 courses for circa 10 euro each. Dinner menus are more expensive but they normally have 2 or 3 different formulas you can chose from. I live about an hour and a half north but haven't been into the City Centre for a while, however when I was last there they were restoring and cleaning a lot of the old buildings and it looked really nice. Sure you will enjoy and find plenty to do.

My biggest moan with the French is that their hotels are normally pretty carp so beware. This is all over France though not just in Bordeaux.

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5 hours ago, BRISTOL86 said:

Anyone been to Bordeaux? Planning a short break with the fiancée in September and looking for the usual recommendations for places to eat/drink and things to do. 

Thanks

Hi Bristol86,

I go to Bordeaux regularly, monthly and sometimes more frequently, and should be happy to assist.

Firstly, how are you getting there, i.e. plane, train or automobile? I usually go by train (from Paris) and, if staying overnight, use the Hotel Mercure near to the station - boring, but clean, reasonably priced and relatively handy - walking distance from both the station and the restaurants I tend to use.

Re. Things to do, I note that you intend staying in Rue St. James, easy walking distance from the beautiful Pont de Pierre, wonderful by day, but even better, quite spectacular, when lit up at night. You are also close to the Quai de Paludate, which is a hive of late night bars and, particularly, clubs/discotheques, many of which are complete dives and best avoided, although some are well worth a visit.

I am assuming from your signature, 86, that you are in your early 30s, but if you let me know what your tastes are, and your budget, I shall try and expand.        

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29 minutes ago, BigTone said:

Grosse Cloche is one of the oldest belfry's in France and means "Big Bell". Also was used as a prison yonks ago. The area is Ok but as with a good bit of Bordeaux don't stray down too many dark side streets late at night as their are some nasty characters around. I think I read that Bordeaux has the largest pedestrianized area in Europe these days so as I say plenty of eateries, bars etc to chose from. If you are looking for lunch then a nice "Plat de Jour" should give you 3 courses for circa 10 euro each. Dinner menus are more expensive but they normally have 2 or 3 different formulas you can chose from. I live about an hour and a half north but haven't been into the City Centre for a while, however when I was last there they were restoring and cleaning a lot of the old buildings and it looked really nice. Sure you will enjoy and find plenty to do.

My biggest moan with the French is that their hotels are normally pretty carp so beware. This is all over France though not just in Bordeaux.

Thanks Tone! We're not staying in a hotel as such, it's a little self contained apartment, looks decent for £75 a night!

We're unlikely to stray too far from base in the evenings and it looks pretty lively/touristy so hopefully won't have too many dangerous liaisons in dark alleyways (though depends how many glasses of the local vin I give Mrs Bristol I suppose...)

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5 minutes ago, PHILINFRANCE said:

Hi Bristol86,

I go to Bordeaux regularly, monthly and sometimes more frequently, and should be happy to assist.

Firstly, how are you getting there, i.e. plane, train or automobile? I usually go by train (from Paris) and, if staying overnight, use the Hotel Mercure near to the station - boring, but clean, reasonably priced and relatively handy - walking distance from both the station and the restaurants I tend to use.

Re. Things to do, I note that you intend staying in Rue St. James, easy walking distance from the beautiful Pont de Pierre, wonderful by day, but even better, quite spectacular, when lit up at night. You are also close to the Quai de Paludate, which is a hive of late night bars and, particularly, clubs/discotheques, many of which are complete dives and best avoided, although some are well worth a visit.

I am assuming from your signature, 86, that you are in your early 30s, but if you let me know what your tastes are, and your budget, I shall try and expand.        

Where are you based Phil ?

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4 minutes ago, PHILINFRANCE said:

Hi Bristol86,

I go to Bordeaux regularly, monthly and sometimes more frequently, and should be happy to assist.

Firstly, how are you getting there, i.e. plane, train or automobile? I usually go by train (from Paris) and, if staying overnight, use the Hotel Mercure near to the station - boring, but clean, reasonably priced and relatively handy - walking distance from both the station and the restaurants I tend to use.

Re. Things to do, I note that you intend staying in Rue St. James, easy walking distance from the beautiful Pont de Pierre, wonderful by day, but even better, quite spectacular, when lit up at night. You are also close to the Quai de Paludate, which is a hive of late night bars and, particularly, clubs/discotheques, many of which are complete dives and best avoided, although some are well worth a visit.

I am assuming from your signature, 86, that you are in your early 30s, but if you let me know what your tastes are, and your budget, I shall try and expand.        

Thanks Phil, very helpful! We're flying and accommodation is all sorted so really just keen to get tips on any 'must do/must see/must eat here' type things!

And any local knowledge, i.e. Tone's tip about the bus was gratefully received! 

In terms of tastes...we're pretty easy going...we don't get away too often so when we do we just like to stuff our faces, drink lots and generally mooch about!

A vineyard tour would be a definite for the wish list and I don't imagine there's any shortage of that going on. I wasn't planning on renting a car as I prefer to forget about driving for a few days when I do manage to get away!

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10 minutes ago, BRISTOL86 said:

Thanks Phil, very helpful! We're flying and accommodation is all sorted so really just keen to get tips on any 'must do/must see/must eat here' type things!

And any local knowledge, i.e. Tone's tip about the bus was gratefully received! 

In terms of tastes...we're pretty easy going...we don't get away too often so when we do we just like to stuff our faces, drink lots and generally mooch about!

A vineyard tour would be a definite for the wish list and I don't imagine there's any shortage of that going on. I wasn't planning on renting a car as I prefer to forget about driving for a few days when I do manage to get away!

 Try http://www.bordeaux-tourism.co.uk/ for wine tours etc.

Not sure if you will have time but Bergerac is a really nice place to see and is not far from Bordeaux by train.

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1 minute ago, PHILINFRANCE said:

Too Long!

1980s for a few years, and then again since late 1990s until present.

I am now thinking of retiring and leaving - but to where?

 

I retired there in 2006 when I was 46 but after a year of renovating our Gites I got bored and went back to work. Now have them up for sale and will retire at the end of next year when my current work contract is up. Love France so will keep a house there and also somewhere in UK and split our time between the two.

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15 minutes ago, BRISTOL86 said:

Thanks Phil, very helpful! We're flying and accommodation is all sorted so really just keen to get tips on any 'must do/must see/must eat here' type things!

And any local knowledge, i.e. Tone's tip about the bus was gratefully received! 

In terms of tastes...we're pretty easy going...we don't get away too often so when we do we just like to stuff our faces, drink lots and generally mooch about!

A vineyard tour would be a definite for the wish list and I don't imagine there's any shortage of that going on. I wasn't planning on renting a car as I prefer to forget about driving for a few days when I do manage to get away!

ONLY if you fancy steak and chips, but seriously only if you like steak, as there is nothing else on the menu....

Leave your apartment in the morning and head for the river, the aforementioned Pont de Pierre, and walk left along the river until you get to Place de la Bourse - have a wander round the Place as it merits quite a few minutes.

Carry on walking until you see the signs for 'Grand Theatre' or 'Opera National' and go left, i.e. away from the river and into the town centre - if you get to a large park, you have gone too far: don't worry, it is a lovely park and well worth a stroll if the weather is nice and you can easily double back to your intended destination (and build up an even bigger appetite). 

When you get to Place de la Comedie, which is where the Opera is located, have a walk round the Place and even wander (inconspicuously:whistle:) into the large hotel opposite (I forget its name) for a look at typical 'Bourgeoisie' (Bordeaux is reputed to be 'Tres Bourgeois' although I love the town), and then head to your restaurant - try to get there for 11H45 latest as there will be large queues and bookings are not accepted.

If you then leave the Opera and head for the tourist office (going back to the park), both clearly signposted as I recall, you will see the restaurant on your right hand side - a yellow sign as I recall, and probably a queue already forming!

Oh, and the name of the restaurant?

L'Entrecote.

Wonderful, but only if you like steak.

Enjoy.

 

  

 

 

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8 minutes ago, PHILINFRANCE said:

ONLY if you fancy steak and chips, but seriously only if you like steak, as there is nothing else on the menu....

Leave your apartment in the morning and head for the river, the aforementioned Pont de Pierre, and walk left along the river until you get to Place de la Bourse - have a wander round the Place as it merits quite a few minutes.

Carry on walking until you see the signs for 'Grand Theatre' or 'Opera National' and go left, i.e. away from the river and into the town centre - if you get to a large park, you have gone too far: don't worry, it is a lovely park and well worth a stroll if the weather is nice and you can easily double back to your intended destination (and build up an even bigger appetite). 

When you get to Place de la Comedie, which is where the Opera is located, have a walk round the Place and even wander (inconspicuously:whistle:) into the large hotel opposite (I forget its name) for a look at typical 'Bourgeoisie' (Bordeaux is reputed to be 'Tres Bourgeois' although I love the town), and then head to your restaurant - try to get there for 11H45 latest as there will be large queues and bookings are not accepted.

If you then leave the Opera and head for the tourist office (going back to the park), both clearly signposted as I recall, you will see the restaurant on your right hand side - a yellow sign as I recall, and probably a queue already forming!

Oh, and the name of the restaurant?

L'Entrecote.

Wonderful, but only if you like steak.

Enjoy.

 

  

 

 

Thanks for that! I saw that restaurant on Rick Stein's 'Long Weekends' programme which was one of the reasons we chose Bordeaux as it looked like he had a great time.

There was indeed a huge queue outside!

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8 minutes ago, BRISTOL86 said:

Thanks for that! I saw that restaurant on Rick Stein's 'Long Weekends' programme which was one of the reasons we chose Bordeaux as it looked like he had a great time.

There was indeed a huge queue outside!

There will most certainly be a large queue, although I can assure you it is well worth the wait - I have eaten in their sister restaurants in both Paris and Toulouse.

I forgot to mention, however, and I have no idea whether or not you or your fiancé speak French, you might try, just out of interest, asking them how they make their Source :grr::whistle:

I have just seen the automatic editing of my word for gravy :grr:.

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26 minutes ago, PHILINFRANCE said:

There will most certainly be a large queue, although I can assure you it is well worth the wait - I have eaten in their sister restaurants in both Paris and Toulouse.

I forgot to mention, however, and I have no idea whether or not you or your fiancé speak French, you might try, just out of interest, asking them how they make their Source :grr::whistle:

I have just seen the automatic editing of my word for gravy :grr:.

We don't speak any French beyond our GCSE basics from all those years ago! Though in all honesty I'm not sure how much use 'my brother Claude lives by the seaside' will be in real world application :laugh: 

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1 hour ago, PHILINFRANCE said:

ONLY if you fancy steak and chips, but seriously only if you like steak, as there is nothing else on the menu...

 

Ah come on Phil, you must be having a laugh. What about Bugs Bunny in Mustard Source or Donald Duck in Orange Source ? Followed by a nice Ile Flottante, coffee, cognac and a good fart.

I must admit though that after living there French food is very over rated. They cannot make a decent sandwich in a million years.

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16 minutes ago, BigTone said:

Ah come on Phil, you must be having a laugh. What about Bugs Bunny in Mustard Source or Donald Duck in Orange Source ? Followed by a nice Ile Flottante, coffee, cognac and a good fart.

I must admit though that after living there French food is very over rated. They cannot make a decent sandwich in a million years.

No, seriously, there is no menu: it is 'steak and chips' with our own 'gravy' or go elsewhere.

As for your rabbit and/or duck suggestions, I must admit that, when down in the Gironde, I would always choose duck  - for starter and main course.

Confit or Magret de Canard :yes:.

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1 hour ago, BRISTOL86 said:

We don't speak any French beyond our GCSE basics from all those years ago! Though in all honesty I'm not sure how much use 'my brother Claude lives by the seaside' will be in real world application :laugh: 

We have a little Boulangerie in our village that is run by this lady called Karine who is  real cracker. A while ago I went in on a very hot day and said "Je suis Chaude" (I am hot) to which she went bright red and started giggling. This also happened on a couple of other occasions until someone told me that I should have said "J'ai Chaude (I have hot). It was then I was told that "Je suis chaude" is taken as I am randy in French.

You live and learn.

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2 minutes ago, PHILINFRANCE said:

No, seriously, there is no menu: it is 'steak and chips' with our own 'gravy' or go elsewhere.

As for your rabbit and/or duck suggestions, I must admit that, when down in the Gironde, I would always choose duck  - for starter and main course.  

Bugs is very tasty

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9 hours ago, BRISTOL86 said:

Anyone been to Bordeaux? Planning a short break with the fiancée in September and looking for the usual recommendations for places to eat/drink and things to do. 

Thanks

We were there for the Euros. Lovely place. Just walking around is a pleasure. We climbed the Tower of Pey-Berland - great view of the city.

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I stayed here.

Www.hotel-maisondulierre-bordeaux.com

Nice little hotel, not in a bad location. Not far to walk or to pop onto a tea. The two French women running the place could not be more helpful. 

 

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